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Second only to refrigerant hose leaks,
compressors have the highest rate of failure of any motor vehicle
air conditioner (HVAC) component. Yet compressors very seldom fail
on their own and it is imperative that the cause of failure
be properly diagnosed and corrected when replacing the compressor.
If this is not done, your replacement compressor will also fail in
a very short time. A compressor is
an engine. Engine failure is almost always caused by a lubrication
or a "coolant" problem. Compressors fail for the same reasons.
COOLANT FAILURE
Referring to the air conditioner, "coolant
failure" means not dissipating heat from the condenser or having
too much heat in the condenser. (Similar to a problem in the engine's
radiator). Too much heat means too high head pressure. On very hot
days this means a high side reading well over 300PSI. High head
pressure is caused by:
- Too much refrigerant. (Overcharge)
- A dirty bug screen or debris blocking the condenser.
- A clogged radiator/cooling system.
- A defective fan clutch or switch that activates the fan clutch.
- A pinched tube in the condenser or too small of a condenser
(if retrofitted or replaced).
- Improperly operating shutters.
- Contaminated refrigerant.
- Excessive air content (non-condensables gas) in system.
LUBRICATION FAILURE
Just as this is a common cause of engine problems,
so too is lubrication failure that most common cause of compressor
problems. Remember, the compressor needs to be lubricated by a special
refrigerant compatible oil. The oil is "carried" through the a/c
system by the refrigerant. The oil will not circulate without refrigerant.
Therefore, compressor failure due to a lubrication problem is caused
by:
- Loss of refrigerant which means no carrier of the oil and no
lubrication for the compressor.
- A blockage in the system. This will keep oil from returning
to the compressor and will normally show up as too low a reading
on the low pressure gauge. "Too Low" a reading means 0-10 PSI
or a vacuum. The blockage may be in the form of:
- A clogged filter drier/expansion valve/orifice tube.
- Moisture in the system. (If the driver says the air conditioner
works okay for a short time then starts blowing hot air and
that if he turns it off for a while and then turns it on it
works again for a short time, the odds are that there is moisture
in the system. (A defective thermostat or clutch cycling switch
will cause the same symptoms, however a watery smell will
also be present.) Follow steps 1 thru 8 of the "SERVICE PROCEDURES"
and make sure the drier/accumulator is replaced, and evacuate
for 45 minutes.
- A mechanically closed expansion valve. Some types may be
removed and blown through (with mouth) to check.
Although these parts can be checked and cleaned,
the service industry, as a general rule, will replace them. So,
compressor failure is caused by:
- "COOLANT FAILURES"
- "LUBRICATION FAILURES"
- Loss of refrigerant-no earner for the oil.
- A blockage in the system restricting the return of oil.
Only EPA Certified Technicians may service
HVAC Systems!
SERVICE PROCEDURES
(SEE MEI/AIRSOURCE OUR CATALOG FOR INFORMATION
ON RETROFITTING)
- Only mechanics certified by an EPA-approved program may service
mobile air conditioner systems.
- Verify correct refrigerant and oil for the system you are servicing.
Take care to not contaminate your recycling equipment. Non-approved
refrigerants containing flammable materials may ignite during
servicing.
- Each refrigerant (R12 and R134a) requires separate gauges, charging
hoses and recycling equipment.
The following procedures should be taken
in servicing an air conditioner system for compressor failure:
- Be absolutely sure that the fan clutch, or electric fan
assembly, if there is one or more on the vehicle, is working
properly. If not it must be replaced or repaired. Check the
switches and controls for the fan and/or shutters.
- Clean the bug screen (if there is one). Check for debris
in the radiator and the condenser fins and/or loose fins.
- Check for good flow of coolant through the radiator.
- Check if there is a loss of refrigerant.
- A refrigerant identifier should be used to prevent equipment
contamination and/or possible injury from flammable refrigerants.
- If the system contains refrigerant it must be recovered
by an approved Recovery or Recovery/Recycling System per Section
609 of the Federal Clean Air Act.
- Disconnect the liquid line (the smallest diameter hose or
line) at the expansion valve or orifice tube and closely examine
for contamination. If any contamination at all is found, whether
it is in the form of sludge, powder or grit, rust or metal
flake, aluminum oxide or metal shavings from the compressor,
the entire system must be flushed. The most effective flush
on the market is an approved oil based flush. It is effective
because it will remain a liquid as it flushes and scrubs.
This scrubbing action will remove all oil, debris, and contamination.
It will not leave any harmful or incompatible residue. We
supply an approved liquid flush solvent that is environmentally
safe. Use Our number MEI 8811 (gal.) and MEI 8812 (qt.) for
Rl34a or R12).
NOTE: DO NOT USE FLUSHES CONTAINING
OZONE DEPLETING CFCs SUCH AS R-ll, 12,113 OR 115. IT IS
ILLEGAL TO VENT THESE REFRIGERANTS PER SECTION 609 OF THE
FEDERAL CLEAN AIR ACT. ALSO, MAKE CERTAIN THAT THE FLUSH
SOLVENT USED IS COMPATIBLE WITH THE TYPE OF REFRIGERANT
YOU ARE SERVICING ALTHOUGH NO CURRENT EPA GUIDELINES EXIST
REGARDING THE TYPE OF SOLVENT USED, IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT
A FLUSH SOLVENT WITH LOW FLAMMABILITY AND LOW VOLATILITY
BE USED.
- If no contamination is found, only the discharge line, condenser
and liquid line need to be flushed.
SEE MEI SERVICE BULLETIN #SB3-304AS
FOR FLUSHING PROCEDURES
- Depending on the type of system, the orifice tube must be
replaced, or the expansion valve should be cleaned and checked
or replaced.
- Again depending on the type of system, the filter drier
or the accumulator must be replaced.
VERIFY CORRECT REFRIGERANT AND
OIL FOR THE SYSTEM YOU ARE SERVICING.
- The proper amount of oil must be replaced in the system.
- Drain the oil from the replacement compressor (new or
remanufactured).
- Install the following amount of oil in the compressor:
- CCl/York and Tecumseh 2 cyl. compressors - in vertical
position oil should stand approximately 1 inch.
- Frigidaire (GM.) A-6 - fill with oil so that when compressor
is held in operating position - oil will just start to
drip out of the loosened oil filler plug.
- GM DA6/R4/HR6HE; FORD FS6, FX 15 (FS 10); DIESEL KIKJ
(ZEXEL, SELTEC/TAMA) and SANDEN - install 5 ounces of
oil.
- Install the replacement compressor.
- For added protection, install an in-line filter between
the filter-drier and the expansion valve or orifice tube.
- Attach hoses, installing the filter drier (or accumulator)
last.
IF SYSTEM IS "0-RING" OR FORD SPRING-LOCK,
INSTALL NEW 0-RINGS AND/OR GARTER SPRINGS. MAKE SURE PROPER
MATERIAL SEALS AND 0-RINGS ARE USED. LUBRICATE "0-RINGS"
WITH R12 TYPE MINERAL OIL OR ESTER OIL WHETHER IN AN R12 OR
R134a SYSTEM.
- Add the following additional amounts of oil:
| Compressor Type |
System Completely Flushed w/o Bunk Unit |
Evaporator Not Flushed |
System Completely Flushed with Bunk unit |
| CCI/YORK, TECUMSEH* |
3 ounces |
2 ounces |
5 ounces |
FRIGIDAIRE*
(GM)A-6
GM DA6/R4/HR6/HR6HE*
FORDFS-6/FX15(FS10)* |
3 ounces |
2 ounces |
5 ounces |
DIESEL KIKI (ZEXEL, TAMA)*
SANDEN |
3 ounces |
2 ounces |
5 ounces |
*This additional oil can be poured
into the discharge hose. DO NOT POUR IN SUCTION HOSE.
For various compressor oil capacities, see the current MEI/Airsource
catalog (compressor section).
The a/c system should now be completely
assembled, with the proper amount of oil and new drier,
new or cleaned expansion valve, and new o-rings if required.
Now for some very important procedures
to prevent the shaft seal of the replacement compressor
from leaking or blowing out.
- After installing the compressor on the vehicle, but before
installing the belt, turn compressor clutch by hand 10- 12
times. This brings oil up to the seal and lubricates it. Note
the GM DA6/HR6/HR6HE compressor cannot be turned by hand.
Turn it with a socket and ratchet by hand. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT.
- Your service gauge set should be hooked up. Add about one
quarter pound refrigerant. Watch your gauges. They should
equalize. The pressure from the refrigerant will help "seat"
the lubricated seal.
CHANGE OIL IN YOUR VACUUM PUMP
ON A REGULAR BASIS (APPROXIMATELY EVERY 20 USAGES DEPENDING
ON HOW "DIRTY" SYSTEMS ARE). USE VACUUM PUMP OIL.
- Purge system using your refrigerant recovery/recycling
equipment. Follow your machine's instructions to insure complete
recovery of refrigerant. Evacuate system for 30 sec. to a
minute so that low side gauge reads a vacuum. Close valves
on gauge set and turn off vacuum pump. If vacuum bleeds off,
find and repair leak. If not, or after repair, proceed to
next step.
- Now evacuate the system for a minimum of 45 minutes. A minimum
4 CFM dual stage pump is recommended for servicing heavy duty
systems. Although you are working with a clean system and
clean non-acidic oil, 45 minutes is necessary to insure a
moisture free system. Regular change of vacuum pump oil is
recommended.
- Switch your charging hoses to the refrigerant source (if
required). Purge the hoses of air and add one pound of refrigerant.
Your gauges should have equalized, i.e. same readings on each
gauge, from 70 PSI to 120 PSI depending on the ambient temperature.
- Finish charging the system.
MAKE SURE SYSTEM IS NOT OVERCHARGED.
- Check gauge readings. Disconnect charging hoses in accordance
with proper service procedures.
If the preceding service procedures are
followed, you will find that you have virtually eliminated "comebacks".
COMPRESSOR REPLACEMENT REQUIRES THE INSTALLATION
OF A NEW RECEIVER-DRIER/ACCUMULATOR AND FLUSHING THE SYSTEM!
PER THE FEDERAL CLEAN AIR ACT OF 1990,
APPROVED RECOVERY/RECYCLING EQUIPMENT IS REQUIRED TO SERVICE
AIR CONDITIONER SYSTEMS. REFRIGERANT MUST NOT BE VENTED TO THE
ATMOSPHERE.
EFFECTIVE NOVEMBER 15, 1995, ALL SUBSTITUTE
FOR R12) REFRIGERANTS (INCLUDING R134a) MUST BE RECOVERED AND
RECYCLED AND MAY NOT BE VENTED.
CHARGING (SERVICE) HOSES MUST HAVE "SHUT-OFFS"
WITHIN 12 INCHES OF THE HOSE END.
PLEASE NOTE THE MEI COMPRESSOR WARRANTY
REQUIRES THE FLUSHING OF THE SYSTEM, THE REPLACEMENT OF THE
DRIER/ACCUMULATOR AND THE CLEANING OR REPLACEMENT OF THE EXPANSION
VALVE/ORIFICE TUBE.
This documentation was provided by MEI
Corporation.
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